Stacia
Falat
Hairstyle
Nandera
takes me to get my hair done on Tuesday after we finish Swahili class under
the big tree. I do not know her well and we stand apart on the corner. To
my left is a German student who also waits to board the bus. He is the only
one who smokes and he does not look around at peopleís faces. He looks at
my Birkenstocks. We wear the same brown leather sandals but have different
tan lines. His are aged and distinct under his pant cuffs when he shifts his
weight. I study my own sandal lines and they are still recovering from their
second week of African sun. I am embarrassed by their boldness and wish my
dress were longer.
Nandera
stands with her arms folded across her chest and does not seem anxious about
our silence. Her hair is in braids crossing over her head and her skin shines
with tiny sweat beads along her hairline. She is dressed formally like all
university students but does not match. Her shirt is sleeveless with a brown
striped collar and her sandals are pink. They make her tall, taller than most
men. Over her shoulder is an orange bag with an Abibas logo. Something looks
odd about the bag, but I cannot place what it is. I am wearing white and notice
dust stains under my arms along the edges. The dala dalas kick up dirt when
they zip past us and the ones Nandera waves down do not stop. They are busy
with elbows and legs jutting out the doors.
ìAh,
the lunch hour is very busy,î Nandera turns to me. She studies her watch.
ìIt is twelve-oíclock. Saa sita.î I nod and try to ignore the clouds of diesel
that settle over my face and dress. I want to cough and wave them away, but
no one else does this, so I hold my breath.
When
the third bus approaches it says Mwenge-Ubungo on the front bumper. The word
Hakim is sprawled across the window in pink paint. ìIt is the name of this
dala dala,î Nandera explains when I ask her. ìEach has a name like a person.î
Together we wave it down. I follow Nanderaís lead; it looks like she is dribbling
a basketball. I am surprised that it works. The dala dala rolls to a stop
a few feet from the curb, but no one gets off. There are men hanging out the
sliding door and one has lost a flip-flop. I quickly count six people standing.
Everyone looks wilted and worn. One man emerges from the tangle of bodies
at the door and his gray shirt is open. I can see his chest.
ìMwenge,
mia moja!î he bellows. His voice is impatient and when Nandera reaches for
me my heart goes fast. The bus has no room. We step forward quickly with our
hands interlocked, but the German student steps first. He raises one Birkenstock
to the bus step and it finds a place between the ankles of three different
people. When they take off, his left arm swings free out the door. He does
not look back. As we back up to the curb I wonder if he will fall out, but
I remember his tan lines and know that he can hang on.
On the
window of the next dala dala to Mwenge-Ubungo, ìJesus is Aliveî is painted,
and the dala dala is not overflowing with people. When it comes towards us
its music radiates and bounces off the buildings. I recognize it is the Malaika
song. Malaika, nakupenda Malaika. One of the first things I learned when I
arrived in Tanzania was that nakupenda means I love you. The man handling
my luggage had made kissing sounds and said nakupenda dada.
Nandera
calls ìnjooî while the dala dala stops and I come, but I am slow. When the
door slides open four people rush in front of me, and a tall man leaps to
the front seat. Nandera takes hold of my wrist to pull me faster and I am
pushed in front of a man with a scratched briefcase and two students with
armloads of books. Inside the bus is more like a van and the rows are compact.
We move along the side aisle past the people in the first row and also over
a bunch of bananas resting there, probably going to a market. The remaining
rows are almost full, but there are two seats left. I can feel eyes shifting
to watch where Iíll sit. I catch the eye of a young girl with golden earrings
and she looks away. Nandera guides me to the second row, still holding my
hand. Hers does not shake.
Nandera
greets two older men in our row. One wears a crooked Islamic cap and his whiskers
are white with age and distinction. She greets them with the respectful greeting.
ìShikamooni.î
They
answer together. ìMarahaba.î
The men
smile at me, but it is a smile of sympathy. They do not expect me to say anything
and I am not confident enough to greet them with my rough Swahili. I smile
back and sit when Nandera pulls on my dress. I am uncomfortable pressed against
the window and Nandera because my hips are jammed in place. I wonder if all
Tanzanian women have this problem.
As Nandera
settles herself with her bag on her lap, I try to settle myself too. I lean
my head against the window and there are vervet monkeys somersaulting in a
ditch by the road. We are going fast. When we hit the first of the university
potholes my head smacks the window and Nandera asks me if I am all right.
It is hard to hear her over the music. I tell her I am fine. The bumps flip
up some school kids in the front like chapati pancakes and the people standing
lose their balance, some grabbing onto other peopleís shoulders. I am glad
to have a seat.
Near
a street called Kileleni two people call out ìshusha,î and the driver stops.
Shusha is the same as pulling the cord on a CTA bus. Three more people get
on at Kileleni, and one of them is a young woman with a baby wrapped in a
kanga on her back. The mother shifts the baby so it is like a backpack around
her stomach, and when she has trouble getting up the step the conductor helps
her up. I look around. There are no seats. Two people are already standing,
hunched in the awkward area between the front seat and the first row. The
mother and I make eye contact briefly and her baby is fussy. The dala dala
starts moving again and she clearly cannot stand with the baby. After a moment
of looking at my covered shoulders she unties the kanga sling and hands me
her toddler.
Nandera
says nothing and though I am not a mother, I take the baby to fill my lap.
Her skin is hot and smooth. The mother stands and does not take her eyes off
me. The baby touches me freely and her thighs rub against mine like our dresses
werenít there. I let my chin rest lightly on top of her head and her tight
curls tickle me. The baby turns to look at my face and she puts her hand in
my mouth. When I remove her fingers I notice she has a rash on her left hand.
I stroke the rash and it feels like sand. ìHuwezi kufanya,î Nandera says,
clicking her tongue, and I stop.
At the town of Survee, Nandera calls ìshusha,î and I know it is our
stop. We are not riding all the way to Mwenge, the central bus station. I
call ìshushaî too, but it is weak and foreign in my throat. The mother frowns
her eyebrows at me and reaches her arms out for the baby. They donít look
strong enough to carry a child. I donít want to let her go. When we stop,
the mother grabs her under the armpits and the baby does not protest.
Nandera
motions for me to stand and I have to step over the banana bunch again. I
step on one accidentally and the ends squish out like a babyís tongue. The
man sitting next to the bananas reaches down to push them closer to him, but
he says nothing. When I reach the doorframe the conductor in the gray shirt
reaches out his hand and I think heís helping me step down. ìMia,î he says.
He wants my fare. I hold out 100 shilingi but he looks at my face and says
ìMzungu, mia hamsini.î His fist is dirty from rows of coins that click together
like a typewriter. He clicks the shilingi together three times. Nandera touches
my back and I pay him 100 shilingi, but he doesnít move from the doorway to
let me off. He clicks again. He waits for fifty more shilingi. I start to
sweat freely and even the driver turns around to watch the hold up. The music
is turned down and I hear the passengers muttering. Then Nandera pushes past
me. As she pays him for her ride she utters that he is a thief under her breath,
and then guides me out. He lets me go. Five more people get on. The ìJesus
Is Aliveî dala dala does not need more from me.
In Survee,
Nandera holds my hand in hers. Her nails are rusty with henna. She is not
the first woman Iíve seen with henna stained nails. I ask her if the color
comes off and she says no. I look at my own nails and they are a pistachio
color. Nandera notices this. ìDo you want me to paint yours with henna?î she
asks. I smile but say no. The henna wonít wash off and I donít understand
why the color is appealing to African women.
When
I look up to take in Survee, I cannot. It is too much: dust and tin roofs
and fruit stands and men on creaky bikes, three lube oil bottles on a tree
stump outside a cafÈ, chickens and a bao game in the shade, a Tusker beer
sign. People rest under trees in every direction and many turn their heads
to follow my walk with Nandera. Two young girls in matching kangas watch me
watching them and they shake their hips like runway models, giggle and go
behind a shed. I almost run into a woman with a basket of pineapple balanced
on her head and Nandera cautions me to watch my path. I watch the ground and
notice that purple flowers are growing by a ditch filled with water and garbage.
A Kilimanjaro bottle is flattened on the street and I step over it carefully.
Nandera walks on it and it doesnít crunch. All of its crunch is gone like
she knew it would be.
ìThis
is Survee,î Nandera tells me. ìThe stylist is there.î She points down a side
street where four girls in white shirts and blue skirts stare at me. I can
make out a patch on the shirt pocket and think they are school uniforms. They
look like my old high school uniform. ìBut first we must go to find the hair
extensions.î I nod to Nandera and notice a group of young men pass me on the
right. Two look back at me and the one wearing a loose fitting tank-top winks.
I stare at his muscular arms and wish the women here would accept me as much
as the men.
Nandera
leads me to a row of low buildings and the third one is a small store hidden
behind bars. Inside, a woman with a welcoming smile stands up from a high
green chair and greets Nandera, who reaches through the cage to shake her
hand. They remain holding hands for some time. The womanís middle is wide
and she wears a kanga wrapped over her ears. Her forehead is high with surprise
when she notices me, and she reaches to shake my hand. ìHujambo dada? Karibu
Tanzania.î
I return
the greeting, ìSijambo mama. Shikamoo.î I am fine. I respect her age.
She acknowledges my respect with an even wider smile and says ìMarahabaî
like itís a song.
Nandera
motions to the hair extensions on a hanger by the baby powder. She tells the
shopkeeper that I want to buy them. I know nothing about hair extensions.
The shopkeeper asks me a question in Swahili but I am thinking about buying
baby powder to rub on babies on the dala dalas. The shopkeeper waits for my
answer and Nandera touches my shoulder. I try to answer, but I cannot remember
the word for braid.
ìDo you
want rastas or corn rows?î Nandera asks. I think for a moment before I tell
her. ìI want rastas.î The image of my friends returning with braids from vacations
in Jamaica comes to me. I picture myself with smooth even braids that move
like cow tails when I turn my head. They will be beautiful.
Nandera
interrupts my gaze at the extensions: ìAll right. Now we choose the color.î
The shopkeeper brings forth three different kinds and they settle on the second,
closest to my hair color. When I hold it up I think it is too black, but it
is the darkest brown of the three choices. ìIt is real hair,î Nandera tells
me. She rubs it between her fingers, admiring it. I think it is a lot like
the texture of my hair but I do not say it.
Out of
the storeís shade, Nandera and I squint together. She gives me my extensions
and they are heavier than I thought theyíd be. I want to hold her hand again.
I feel like I belong with her holding my hand but she does not offer hers.
ìUnataka soda baridi?î she asks me slowly. I have forgotten my water bottle
and the invitation of a soda makes me stretch my dry mouth. We go to Mikeís
Kiosk because it is the closest one and get two Fanta oranges. I pay for Nanderaís,
though she doesnít ask. When I turn to her she is putting her wallet back
in her purse, and I wonder if Iíve insulted her. I do not know the etiquette
of a Tanzanian outing.
I ask
her if the stylist is good. ìYes, she is good, she does my hair,î she tells
me. I stare at her hair plaited tightly against her head. The ends meet on
the top in puffs and she shows me how the extensions were sewn in and fluffed.
I reach up to touch her braids and she bends her head for my curiosity. It
is the gesture of a Maasai child to an elder, one of respect and submission.
My hand falls away, though I donít think Nandera notices the offense.
ìDoes
it hurt?î I ask cautiously.
Nandera
laughs and finishes her soda. ìYes, very much,î she says. ìWhen I was a little
girl I would scream and cry. My mother would take me to a salon and the woman
would pull my head this way and this way.î She moves her chin left and then
right. ìNow my head is tough,î she says. She looks at my hair and touches
the loose curls. ìBut you have a young head. I will tell her to be gentle.î
I want to thank her for taking me but I have forgotten again the word for
braid.
Nandera
leads me down the alley we passed earlier and the road is muddy between the
crumbling buildings. She is careful to walk around the potholes because they
have water and diesel swirling in them. I look around for the salon but I
donít see a sign, then Nandera stops abruptly and turns into an opening in
a cement wall. I study the crooked doorframe for just a moment before Nanderaís
hand reach out and she beckons me inside. When I step into the shadows a chorus
of women welcome me. ìKaribu dada.î Welcome sister, they say.
It is
dark inside the shop but my eyes browse the room quickly. It is the size of
a walk-in closet and a table takes up the back wall. A woman with nicely arched
eyebrows is embracing Nandera. They talk quickly and Nandera introduces the
woman to me in Swahili. ìHuyu ni Fatuma. She will be your hairdresser.î Fatuma
and I shake hands and she doesnít let mine go. She is wearing two orange kangas.
The one around her waist touches the dirt floor and the other is draped over
her shoulders. It is warm in the shop but I wonder if she is cold. Nandera
also introduces me to two other women, Asha and Upendo, and I find the courage
to greet them properly with ìhamjambo?î Asha is young, maybe twenty, with
large cheeks and jagged toenails. She sits on a carved wooden stool, wide
and shaped for a womanís butt. A full-length mirror with a wheat-thin crack
reflects Ashaís gray t-shirted back. Upendo sits on a woven straw mat with
faded red edges and leans against the wall. Her arms are strong and heavy
under her paisley blouse. Three pairs of brightly colored flip-flops lay neatly
by the doorway. These are the only people and things in the salon. It is a
simple place. It is Nanderaís favorite.
Nandera takes the extensions from me carefully and Fatuma finally drops
my hand. The women begin talking in fast Swahili, and I assume they are talking
about my hairstyle. I take the opportunity to lean against the table and it
is solid. There is a giraffe carved in each of the legs and I remember it
is the national symbol of Tanzania. It is illegal to kill a giraffe. When
I look up I notice that the ceiling is crumbling in a corner and there is
an iron bar coming through. Asha watches me study the ceiling and we meet
eyes. Hers show nervousness, but I smile to show her it is all right. I like
the salon. I like the table and the mat. Fatuma reaches out to me, still talking
to Nandera, and runs her hands through my hair. I am too tall for her to touch
the top, so I bow my head.
Fatumaís
fingers along my scalp are relaxing and she moves them in slow, deliberate
circles. I close my eyes. She is able to comb all my hair quickly with her
fingers alone. The knots in the curls separate easily for her. When I open
my eyes to Fatumaís bare feet I notice her toes are stained with henna as
well. I decide itís the fashion, and maybe even that itís pretty.
ìIt will take a long time to do your hair,î Nandera tells me. She too
runs her hands over my head and my scalp tingles. ìI have told Fatuma you
are new and not to pull so tight. But your hair is like corn silk and it will
be hard for Fatuma to braid it. Mzungu hair is not good for braiding.î
I am surprised she has called me mzungu, the derogatory term for white
person, but I ignore it. ìHow long will it take?î I ask. I lift my head to
look at her and Fatuma stands back, letting us talk in English. Asha rises
from the stool and brushes it off with swift motions.
ìMaybe it will take three or four hours. You must be patient. Your
wowowo will be tired from sitting on the stool. When I was a little girl I
would run away if it took too long.î She laughs. ìMy mother was very upset.î
Nandera
shifts her Abibas bag from her left to right shoulder and talks again to Fatuma,
who presses me to have a seat. She turns to me. ìIím sorry that I have to
leave now.î I am surprised and my eyes show it; I thought she would stay.
ìDonít worry, you will be fine here. Iíve lots of studying to do. I will be
back to see you in a few hours.î I notice then that her voice is tired. I
have forgotten that she is a student like me with classes and books and a
schedule. She cannot spend all afternoon with me. Fatuma grabs a pick and
begins combing my hair. ìYou will be fine here,î Nandera tells me again. She
says kwaherini and the women return her farewell. When she turns into the
Survee sunlight her skin shines like gold dust, and I think that she is beautiful.
The pick
is also carved and Fatuma is swift with it. She parts my hair in long horizontal
lines and short vertical ones and the edges are dull with use. Asha has opened
the extensions and separates them into small pieces. My head is slowly bent
forward to my chest and then I feel two sets of hands on my scalp. I am touched
gently but firmly, but I tense when an extension winds around the fine hairs
along my neckline. Knuckles brush the back of my neck and form a knot, then
tighten it in a swift pinch. My eyes start to water. I hold it in. This is
what African women must feel. When the first braid touches my spine it scratches
my neck, and when I reach around to feel it, it is about ten inches longer
than my hair started out with. Less than half the hair is mine. I do not know
how to explain that I want them shorter so I say nothing. I miss Nandera already.
More
and more braids fall on my back and then someone rights my head. I can look
up and out the doorway, into the light. It is an alley but it is busy with
people passing, returning to peer in the salon, then going on their way. Fatuma
greets many of them and one woman brings in a child with the ends of her hair
loose. She looks surprised that all three women are busy, and after a moment
they leave. I watch other children pass and the one that strikes me most wears
a long t-shirt and no underwear. He walks back and forth, calling to another
child, trailing a long, filthy piece of cloth that looks like a lionís tail.
Once he stops in the doorway and looks at me, then shouts ìmzungu,î in a defiant
voice. His eyes are full of life and his hair full of dust. I want to tell
him stories and hold him on my lap, but he dashes away. His feet are little
but they pound the earth like drums.
At the
end of the first hour my butt is sore. By the second hour I am a bit lonely,
highly dehydrated, and my head is heavy with rasta braids. I can see them
out of the corners of my eyes. I think about machungwa. Oranges. My mouth
is tired though I have only listened to the women gossiping in Swahili, Fatuma
always chatting the most. I clear my throat twice before Fatuma stops talking
and kneels before me. Her orange kanga slides off her shoulder and she allows
it to fall. Underneath she wears a blouse. It is white and finely embroideredóa
traditional Tanzanian shirt. The kanga was protecting it from dust. I think
about my own stained dress and wonder where I can get a kanga.
ìNimechoka,î
I say slowly. I am tired. I want a break. Fatumaís eyes light up as she realizes
that I know some Swahili. I am not just a tourist.
ìPumzika
kidogo,î she says and puts down the extension she holds on the table. It is
time to rest. She sits on the table and I stand up on stiff knees to stretch.
Asha joins her on the table and begins to swing her feet, but Fatuma scolds
her and hits her knee. She gets down and sulks on the mat in the corner. After
a moment, Fatuma sits with her and begins to sing to her softly, and I wonder
if they are sisters. Upendo moves in front of me suddenly and crouches to
pat my feet.
ìNaomba
viatu vyako,î she says, and it is a second before I realize she is trying
to undo my sandals. I take off both sandals and hand them to her. She feels
the leather slowly and then tries them on, but they donít fit. Her pinky toes
are too large. It makes me sad to watch her struggle with them and she says
ìasanteî when she gives them back.
While
we rest, a teenage girl with cornrows passes the salon eating a sucker. She
sees me, stops, and stands in the doorway. She studies me briefly and the
light behind her makes her face seem dark. ìYou are from America,î she says.
Her accent is British, like Nanderaís. The sucker never leaves her mouth.
I nod
my head and feel relief in my veins. I can talk to someone. I size her up
to be about sixteen, several years younger than me. ìYes, Iím American,î I
say. I sit down on the stool and stretch out my legs. ìHow can you tell?î
ìI can
always tell who the Americans are.î
ìOh.î
I shouldíve known. ìHow do you know English?î
The girl
leans against the doorframe and bites her sucker. ìSchool.î She says it with
a sigh. ìWhere are you from in America?î
ìChicago.
Where are you from?î
The girl
takes a final bite and her sucker is finished. ìI am from here,î she says,
gesturing to the alley behind her. She swings her hips from side to side and
the pleats of her skirt flare around her. Her cornrows are in diagonal lines
across her head and I ask her if Fatuma braids them. She tells me no, that
her mother does it.
ìWhat
is your name?î I ask her.
ìBrandy.
And I am going to come to America someday.î She says it like itís a fact.
Brandy looks at my rastas and moves to touch one. She throws the sucker stick
on the floor. ìYou look very beautiful. Umependeza dada. Do you know Kiswahili?î
I confess
that I only know a little and Brandy laughs. Her voice is not as soft as Nanderaís.
ìBut you are trying, and that is good. Tell me,î she says as she digs into
a small purse at her side. ìDo you know Michael Jordan?î I tell her no, that
I have never seen him. Brandy is disappointed and pulls out a worn magazine
picture from her purse. It is Michael Jordan with a heart drawn around his
face. She shows me for only a second before she kisses the picture and presses
it to her heart.
ìI am
in love with him,î she says. I smile and she carefully puts the picture away.
ìThen tell me. Do you know the National Anthem?î
I am
now surprised. ìFor America?î
ìYes,
I want to learn the American National Anthem. Everyone knows the song for
Tanzania.î She crouches before me and looks me in the eye. ìCan you teach
me?î
ìI can
sing it, I think. But it is very long.î While I am thinking about the words
Fatuma rises from the mat and says something to Brandy. Brandy takes a step
back on her haunches and the women resume their work. I can feel that I am
almost finished. The tugging is almost over.
ìSing
it now,î Brandy begs. The pick parts the last of the hair above my brow line
and I begin to sing. When I get through the first stanza I realize I cannot
remember past ìAt twilightís last gleaming.î
ìIíll
sing the rest of it later,î I tell Brandy. She moves in to sit on the mat,
satisfied.
Fatuma
finishes a braid and looks down at my eyes. ìUna mlei?î she asks, smiling.
I notice for the first time that her cheeks are sunken slightly, that
her teeth are small. I look to Brandy and shrug my shoulders. Fatuma throws
her an obvious look.
ìDo you
have a housegirl?î Brandy translates.
I answer
no, that I am a student at the university and there are maids that clean.
I am not even sure what a housegirl is. Brandy takes off her sandals and stretches
out her legs like mine. She rubs her toes in circles in the dust.
ìShe
wants to know if you want a housegirl in America. She says she will work without
pay.î
I swallow
and my throat will not make words. My eyes fall on my sandal lines and I manage
to whisper, ìI have not been here that long.î
ìWhat
do you say?î
ìI do
not need a housegirl in America.î I exhale slowly and feel guilty when I say
it. I like to imagine Fatumaís cheeks filling in and the puffiness under her
eyes disappearing. I can picture a salon with fans and shiny scissors in jars
of alcohol. There is no translation.
ìWell.
Perhaps you have mpenzi? Do you? Do you have a lover?î She looks at me earnestly
and I am embarrassed. I donít even know her.
Brandy
rises and she is excited. My silence is enough of an answer. ìThen do you
want to marry my brother? He is looking for a wife.î She grins and moves towards
the bright doorway. ìYou could stay with me and be my American sister and
have babies. Then we could go to America and meet Michael Jordan.î Her voice
is loud in the salon. Fatuma finishes the last braid and everything stops
in the moment I am turned to look in the cracked mirror.
My first
reaction is that I am Medusa with a head of snakes. The curls are gone. My
hair is sectioned off in neat, white patchwork-quilt squares, and out of each
jolts a cord of black braid that extends to my chest. I reach up to examine
one by my ear and hold it out in front of me, feeling the texture like an
old pipe cleaner. The ends are all frayed and I realize I have forgotten about
rubber bands. When the girls at home come back from Jamaica they always have
rubber bands tying the ends. Here they do not need rubber bands because it
is not the same. African braids are not the same.
ìUmependeza,î
Fatuma says. She gathers the braids from my sides and ties them in a knot
in the back. The ends stick out like TV antennas and she smoothes my temple
where it is reddened. Asha and Upendo nod their heads in agreement. ìUmependeza
sana,î they say. I turn to look at my profile and find myself nodding too.
The rastas are large and black and radiant. I look at Brandy behind me in
the mirror.
ìNow
you are Tanzanian,î she says. ìMy brother will want to meet you for sure.
Do you want to meet my brother?î Brandy turns my face with her hands and looks
into my eyes. I donít know what theyíre saying, but Iím thinking no.
ìI
knew it!î Brandy does a pirouette. ìI will get him now. He will think you
are beautiful, too.î
ìBrandy!î
I call to her but she has already leaped out the door. She does not come back.
I imagine her running down the alley around puddles and Kilimanjaro bottles
and old people holding chickens. I imagine her running all the way home and
rousing her brother from a sleeping mat to tell him an American girl wants
a man. I look at my hair in the mirror again and my head feels heavy. I turn
to Fatuma.
ìI donít
want a husband. I am a student. I have to go to school.î I say it slowly out
loud and Fatuma seems to understand. She touches the white spaces between
the rastas and I know they will get burned in the sun. I would like to stay
and have African babies. I would like to have soda in a bottle by palm trees
and ride a bicycle with a basket of mangoes attached to the back. I would
like Fatuma to do my hair every two weeks when the hairs begin to poke out
like star points. I think I would be happy that way. But I am only a visitor
here. Everything is a reminder of this. Brandy is wrongóchanging my hair does
not make me African.
When
I stand I know it is time to leave. I say thank you to the women and decide
to pay them each 5,000 shilingi for their work. Fatuma refuses to take it
until I say ìzawadi.î It is a gift. My generosity separates me from their
condition. Nandera is not back yet, but I am ready to leave the salon and
go into the afternoon sunlight. I say thank you again and shake my head to
the leftover extensions that Asha offers. I will not need them. I am not sure
where I am going but I think I need another soda. Fatuma seems to know what
I want and leads me down the alley back to the line of shops and Mikeís Kiosk.
To my surprise, she points to Nandera who sits at a table with a book, and
then walks back to her salon. I had not expected her to wait and approach
her slowly. She is busily writing notes in a large notebook. I look down at
her textbook and it says Global Economics. She is working to make her country
rise. My shadow makes her head turn.
ìOh,
my. That didnít take as long as I thought. Umependeza. Do you know what that
means?î I nod. ìYou look beautiful!î
ìThank
you, I mean, asante,î I say. I am bashful. Nandera stands and she has taken
off her pink sandals. She touches the knot at the base of my neck and when
I bend my head for her, she runs her hands over the braids on top. Her touch
is soft. ìThey are so long! Did you want them so long?î I explain to her that
I didnít know how to say otherwise and she laughs. ìWe like rastas long here.
But we should burn the ends. That will seal them so they do not unwind.î She
tucks some of the ends inside the knot and our eyes meet. ìI can do it for
you when we go back to the university.î
Nandera
gathers her books and carefully places them in her shoulder bag. She wipes
the dust off her feet and becomes two inches taller when she puts her sandals
back on. ìTayari?î she asks. Her eyelashes curl up with her smile. I nod my
head yes, Iím ready to go back. We wait together in the sun, but we do not
wait long. When the next dala dala comes down the Survee road headed back
to the university I can smell the exhaust cloud. As it stops, I turn and look
down the alley expecting to see Brandy, but the only person there is the child
with the lion tail. He is running in circles, but he stops to look at me.
When I wave to him, he thrashes the cloth and leaps in a mud puddle.